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Fork & Dagger: Crusco breathes rarified air into River Arts District

Fork & Dagger: Crusco breathes rarified air into River Arts District

Speckled ocean trout with peppers, marinated eggplant and potato chips Photo: Saga Communications/Grub Scout


Editor’s Note: Fork & Dagger is 828newsNOW’s anonymous restaurant review series, written by our independent Grub Scout—no freebies, no press perks, no agenda. Grub Scout pays full price, visits unannounced, and takes notes on food, service, atmosphere, and value. Each review reflects a recent, honest experience rated on our 1‑to‑5 fork scale. We aim to help you discover standout dining spots—from casual diners to white‑tablecloth affairs—one bite at a time.

When local chef Brian Canapelli passed away earlier this year, Cucina 24 closed its doors. His legacy has a lasting impression on many foodies who have resided in Asheville for a long time. His restaurant was a beacon of fine dining for 16 years.

So, when the news broke that several of the staff were opening a new spot on Depot Street in the River Arts District, I was overjoyed! An added bonus was that they were opening in the former Vivian restaurant location that, sadly, was washed away by the waters of Helene. That restaurant was also very dear to me.

When I arrived at Crusco, I was pleasantly surprised by the decor and ambience, which were similar to Cucina but retained the spirit of Vivian. The bar is beautiful and has a phenomenal selection.

Midtown Manhattan and Absinthe Spritz
Midtown Manhattan and Absinthe Spritz

For cocktails, we began with the Midtown Manhattan: bonded rye, dry vermouth, Amaro and herbal liqueur. I’d never had a dash of Amaro in a Manhattan, but what a nice addition.

Next was the Absinthe Spritz: absinthe verte, cucumber, lime and mint — a simple yet enjoyable recipe.

Yellowtail Crudo
Yellowtail Crudo

On to the food: Yellowtail Crudo was cut well and perfectly tender, with a balanced fennel relish.

Warm marinated Romano beans with soffrito and sherry vinegar on focaccia was especially nice on a cool evening.

Romano beans
Romano beans

Beets with carrots, crispy pork and ponzu sauce was a clever dish.

The standout was Shrimp Toast with togarashi and tomato jam. The consistency and texture were very comforting. Do not skip this one.

Beets with carrots, crispy pork and ponzu sauce
Beets with carrots, crispy pork and ponzu sauce

We then chose a glass of the Sangiovese, as well as the Verdejo, which were both lovely options.

For entree, we shared the grilled fish, a speckled ocean trout with peppers, marinated eggplant and potato chips, a complex and interesting dish.

Dessert was a fine bundt cake with a delicate lemon verbena ice cream.

I wanted this to be a very special experience, and it lived up to my expectations. The food, beverages, service and atmosphere were perfect for date night. I believe Crusco will be with us for a long time. Get your reservation now.


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